I was emailing places all week trying to get a reservation for a harness and helmet (since the hike is more of a climb at times and you cannot do it without the proper gear-- unless you are experienced and a tad nuts), but didn't get a positive response until 2:00 pm on Friday. In order to make it to the place to get the harness I had to leave Munich at 3:30. Luckily, being the eternal optimist that I am, I had packed enough clothes for the trip in my backpack when I left for work in the morning (in the off chance I did manage to secure a harness by the time I could head to Garmisch with the others...) So, I left directly from work to get to the train station. I still hadn't figured out where I was going to stay that night, but I was on my way to Garmisch yet again, but I had nowhere to stay. I was determined to climb the Zugspitze, though, and those details would have to wait until I got there.
As is usual in Germany, the train wasn't air-conditioned. I was boiling the whole time since I still had my work clothes on and had basically sprinted there directly from work. It was a small price to pay, because I was really excited about the next day.
We got to Garmisch-Partenkirchen and picked up our gear-- also opting for some crampons (or Steigeisen in German which means 'climbing irons' if you translate it directly) for the trek up the glacier which was part of the chosen route through Höllentalklamm (which, incidently, means 'hell's valley'...)I had to find a place to stay in Grainau (or nearby) because that's where everyone else in the group was staying that night. I was praying I'd be able to find something since the last thing I wanted to worry about was a proper night's rest before beginning the 8 hour ordeal the next day. My back-up plan was to sleep in a park...which seemed a little sketchy at best. Luck seemed to be on my side that day, though, because the first place we saw after we got off the bus to Grainau had a sign that said room free. I walked up and rang to see if I could get the room for that night, and sure enough I was able to rent the last room in the place. The hostess was a little old German lady who spoke not a word or English and who I was a head taller than (she was really short). She asked me what my plans were in Grainau and I told her I'd be climbing Zugspitze through the Höllentalklamm the next day. She tried to talk me into the easier path and seemed very concerned about this plan. I'm pretty sure she thought I was a goner, but with good reason as I found out the next day...
2962m of Alp right there
At 5:00 am the next morning we began our trip to the Höllentalklamm at Hammersbach-- it took about an hour to reach the start of the Zugspitze trail and from there it would be another 8 hours to the summit. Everyone was pretty pumped and we breezed through the first few hours of the hike-- reaching the Höllentalklamm Hütte in less time than we thought it'd take. We took a quick break, loaded up on water, trail mix, and fruit before continuing upward. Pretty soon it became clear why this place was called Höllentalklamm. There was no shade and the sun was already beating down at 8 am when we started the Steig.
The beginning of the valley-- beautiful scenery and the morning was really nice weather for hiking.
Just past the last lodge and the valley is already in full sun. This did not bode well for sunburning...
Soon enough we reached the first via Ferrata (metal bars and cables that help climbers get through the more vertical passes.) This was actually a lot of fun and not that difficult. I had a lot more trouble with the hiking, but I think I deserve a little credit, as this was my second hike ever. In 20 years of existence..
All smiley pre-via Ferrata
Clipping in to the cables all the way and not looking down a whole lot.
After another couple hours of trudging up the valley, we reached the glacier, which marks the end of the hiking before the 2nd via ferrata which continues the rest of the way to the top. Don't get too excited, it's still another couple of hours of climbing before you reach the summit.
Glacier-- still pretty far away, lot's of hiking to do!
It was pretty steep, slippery, loose rock through here. The full sunlight didn't help. I was beginning to see where the 'hell's valley' moniker came from.
Grateful for the Steigeisen here. The glacier sucked.
Pulling myself up the via Ferrata was a little awkward since I was a bit short to make the first bar. I did a very awkward chin-up to get going and kept climbing with a few breaks for the next 3 hours!
Worth. It.
And all 9 (Nate was taking the picture, so it's only 8 right here) made it! We wanted a picture on the summit, but, you know...lightening...
I returned my gear and got on a train back to Munich. After a well earned Döner, shower, and a quick call to let my mom know I was still alive, I passed out in sheer exhaustion for the next 12 hours.
**Pictures of me at the summit do exist! I just need to get them from the people who have them on their cameras!
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